We anchored in Daniel’s bay staged for a hike to Vaipō waterfall in the ancient village of Hakaui. Vaipo is the tallest waterfall in French Polynesia, boasting a height of 1,148 feet /250 meters. We sauntered through the lush valley surround by jagged basalt peaks, jammed packed with fruit, citrus and breadfruit trees, manicured lawns and simple Polynesian homesteads that have stood the test of time. The smell of ripe and rotten fruit enwrapped our nostrils, so much prosperity with the tropical fruit, there was more than the community can eat and harvest. We did not take any fruit as it was not ours for the taking, I did have a very hard time walking through and witnessing perfect fallen mangos, it was a bit heartbreaking to see.
After leaving the valley where the people live, we crossed the stream several times, walking though ancient homesteads, the relics of old walls, old storage pits, and rock platforms for homes, these rocks so old and full of history we will never know. The ground was wet and supple, we had to walk softly as to not slip due to the recent rainfall. The air was thick with humidity and the new life was abounding and flying all around us in the form of newly hatched hungry-hungry mosquitos. These ancient woods cried for a sacrifice; and my strappy long legs served as a smorgasbord for the mosquitos relentless feasting.









Stunning, just stunning. And I’m jealous as I can be of your fantastic adventures. Enjoy every minute.
I was there in 1975 when Daniel’s family was the only family there. He insisted that I take his horse and his two small kids guided my husband and I to the falls. The kids showed us how they could find human bones and skulls in those old stone platforms, there from the cannibalism days. I hope to go back someday and see how it has changed.